KUALA LUMPUR, June 9 — With a name like The Art Noodles Lab, there should be little confusion about what’s on the menu. And yet, when I visited this restaurant in Fortune...
Perfect ‘Jinhua’ ham ‘ angelica sinensis ’ snow sliced pork noodles is one of 12 different pork noodle variations available at The Art Noodles Lab . — Pictures by Ethan LauKUALA LUMPUR, June 9 — With a name like The Art Noodles Lab , there should be little confusion about what’s on the menu.
And yet, when I visited this restaurant in Fortune Perdana, Kepong, the long and unrelenting menu lay siege to my senses; even now, the page of 26 optional add-ons is seared into my memory. Yes, this is a noodle house, and they serve noodles, but the sheer variety of noodle dishes under one roof is extraordinary. I could genuinely eat here every day for at least three months and never have the same dish twice. Pork noodles, pork ball noodles, seafood noodles, seafood and pork noodles,I should mention that parking here requires luck, persistence and even more luck. On top of that, one can expect the place to fill up pretty quickly. The restaurant was indeed full on this occasion, but perhaps most interestingly, there was at least one bowl of pork noodles on every table. Not every bowl appeared identical, as they were all picked out of a list of 12 different iterations of pork noodles., does most of the herbal heavy lifting in balancing the intensity of pork in the broth. Wolfberries add some much-needed sweetness as well. The mince is made from the belly, giving it a delightfully fatty and springy texture. Slivers of ham add a funky aroma to the soup, though the actual pieces end up tasting a little on the sweet side.The pork balls are made in-house, so naturally there’s a page dedicated to pork ball noodles. The fresh mushroom pork tendon ball noodles are perfect for fans of the snappy, almost crunchy texture of tendons in ball form along with the meaty, earthy qualities of mushrooms. Interestingly, there’s a choice of broths in this section: we went for the “god level tea tree mushroom soup” which arrived looking almost surreal.The ‘siham’ + chorizo pork sausage + honey BBQ ‘Nyonya curry laksa’ is a solid, if a little different, version of KL curry mee. Unlike the thick but slightly cloudy broth of the pork noodles, this had a tinge of yellow with a thicker, smoother consistency. The flavour of Chinese cooking wine is expressed a lot stronger in this broth, but in case you would like more, there’s a tiny carafe of it at every table.A few things to address here. First, I figured the chorizo might be a loose translation, as it’s described as nothing more than a housemade sausage in Chinese.. The curry base is much closer in taste and resemblance to KL-style curry mee, with a strong curry powder flavour instead of the moreThat said, this was a surprisingly good curry mee, and the bowl was chock full of pork rind and fried beancurd skin. Unfortunately, the sausage — though decent-sized — really didn’t belong in the bowl. It carried a very artificial-tasting smokiness and was difficult to discern from the average supermarket frank. Sometimes, you’re better off without a sausage after all.G-13, Fortune Perdana, Jalan Metro Perdana Barat, Kepong, 52100 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Fortune Perdana Chinese Food Kepong Curry Laksa Angelica Sinensis Nyonya Laksa Kepong 十三香味面馆 Theartnoodleshouse
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