Joe Nguyen is a digital strategist for The Denver Post. Previously he was the online prep sports editor. Prior to that, he covered Adams County and Aurora in the YourHub section. He has previously covered Colorado’s Asian-American communities as editor for Asian Avenue magazine and AsiaXpress.com.
Oven-fried hot wings. Smaller, lighter and sharper than Buffalo wings, this interpretation of a classic has faded away over time. But you can make it at home. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini. ATLANTA — There was a time in Hank Kim’s life when eating hot, crisp-fried chicken wings every day was the norm — he could easily down about 20 in a sitting — not least because his family opened a wing shop, Cafe Hot Wing, in 1988.
Over the years, other families, inspired by the success of the Kims’ Riverdale, Georgia, shop, started their own. Here, in an approximation of that original sauce, those key dry ingredients give a cayenne hot sauce a concentrated complexity without adding moisture, which would dilute the experience. The shop’s owner, Jose Tenesaca, 48, used to work at various Korean restaurants and chicken wing shops before starting his own. When I opened the hinged white foam lid of my lunch there, a vinegary gust blew into my face, instantly setting off my drool center. As hot wing sauces go, Tenesaca’s is a little different. He uses lemon juice, which lifts the sauce’s quintessential tanginess in a fresh way, but the original taste was still there — the chile, garlic, onion and peppercorn.
4. Pull the sheet pan out of the oven and carefully flip the chicken. 6. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: In a small saucepan or skillet, combine the hot sauce, butter, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder and black pepper and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt.
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