[New School] Keeping up with the ‘suman’: Heritage food in a changing society

'As fast food dominates the center, suman is relegated to the periphery.' Opinion

is our means of saying, “a family that struggles together, sticks together.”is present on All Souls Day. It connects us to the people who first enjoyed my lola’s suman but are no longer with us at our table., or sticky rice, simmered in coconut milk and brown sugar. A calamansi leaf is added to it for scent, while a banana leaf seared over moderate heat wraps it.

Cultural lag happens when material culture takes too long to catch up to trends. In a fast-paced society, people neglect suman because they are forced, if unintentionally, by ever-changing consumer behavior, which is impacted by three factors: economics, geography, and socialization. The suman bared the poverty they experienced and the limited consumer choice they had. At the same time, it projected hope that one day they might be able to pull themselves out of it.

Migration brought in a plethora of distinct cultures, striving to blend with the local color of the place. Nonetheless, there are cultures among them that adamantly oppose assimilation. Some even rebel against it in the hopes of constructing a new and, arguably, better one. At school, an integral facilitator of socialization, where our table evolved into a vast cafeteria of choices, there was little discussion of the suman. Most of my peers on campus regarded suman to be a second-rate meal when compared to fries and burgers. Because the latter were in such high demand, the suman was marginalized.

Suman can be reintroduced in school as well. The school is critical because it has facilities and resources to raise awareness about suman and devise strategies to bridge the gap between heritage and development.

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