Since Pinky Cole began selling Slutty Vegan burgers in 2018, the restaurant has expanded to 10 locations, with plans to open five more branches by the end of the year. “I am going to be bigger than Oprah,” Cole said.
“We call those global ambassadors,” he said.“One hundred per cent,” the rep said. “You’d fit as a city ambassador, and then elevate into a global ambassador eventually.”
A few minutes later, Cole’s phone pinged, and she tapped at it with long gold nails. It was a message from an employee saying that the N.B.A. player Chris Paul—a noted vegan and a Slutty Vegan investor—was in town. Just like that, Cole was back to running orders. “He wants some food tonight,” she said.
On Super Bowl Sunday this past February, which was also Jaware’s thirty-ninth birthday, I attended a party at Cole’s home in a gated “country-club community” outside of the city, where she lives with her fiancé, Derrick Hayes, and their two young children. The house is one of more than twenty properties that Cole owns, including most of her restaurant locations.
Cole told me that when she first started Slutty Vegan her customer base was largely Black. Her restaurants showed people that “you don’t have to make a certain amount of money or live in a certain area to be vegan,” she said. In that sense, Slutty Vegan belongs to a movement of Black veganism that has seen a renaissance in recent years, propelled by social-justice issues such as health equity and food access. But Slutty Vegan has in some ways outgrown that affinity.
As a Black-owned food chain, though, Slutty Vegan is answerable to more than one set of political concerns. Mike Jordan, a graduate of Morehouse College and a longtime Atlanta food writer, also called Cole a marketing genius. But he said he worries about her leveraging of Black celebrity and culture to sell Slutty Vegan burgers, given that they’re not all that healthy—or, in his opinion, that good. “Do people like the burger? When you ask them in a safe space, people really don’t,” he said.
Cole’s outfit was priest chic: black dress with white trim and creamy “marriage nails” decorated with crosses. A half hour before the ceremony, she hadn’t yet written her remarks. I asked if she was nervous. “The only person who could make me nervous is Oprah,” she said.
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