“I went for breakfast, stayed for lunch, and left with enough takeout for dinner; who knew when I’d get back again?” Hannah Goldfield treks to Graniteville to visit the new Turkish restaurant, Zara Forest Grill.
, a flaky flatbread folded around potato, spinach and cheese, or ground meat, and, a curdy scramble of eggs, tomatoes, and peppers. A breakfast platter comes with a traditional spread: fanned tomato and cucumber; salt-cured olives; assorted cheeses; tiny links of beef salami, their ends split like tulip petals; honey, cherry jam, and clotted cream; warm pita; a small, puffy, crisp-edged omelette; and a pot of strong coffee or black tea.
The chicken gyro, made from thighs spiced with orange peel and oregano and wrapped around the spit, is just as good; get it to go and the meat is packed on top of silky rice pilaf, soaking it in delicious fat. For the, a smoky eggplant purée is whipped with labneh and heavy cream, then topped with cubes of garlicky marinated beef shish kebab and a brown-butter-and-paprika sauce.
At the end of the meal, it’s worth waiting the fifteen minutes it takes the kitchen to prepare the spectacular—a nest of twiggy shredded phyllo dough that is crisped in clarified butter, layered with cheese, and then flipped, bathed in a honey syrup, and finished with crushed pistachio.
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