Tortellini or Dumplings? That’s what Massimo Bottura calls his latest twist on classic tortellini at his Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy.
, the luxury guesthouse and restaurant he and his wife,, run on the outskirts of Modena — a quick 15-minute drive from Bottura’s three-star restaurantthree life-size images of artistletting an ancient artifact fall to the ground. It’s an unmistakable statement of purpose for the chef.Of course, the thing about Bottura is that putting the pieces back together again in a way that feels new without losing the essence of the object is just as essential as the breakage.
dropped a lemon tart before service. Bottura declared the spectacle “beautiful” and proceeded to crack the crust and artfully re-create the splatter on every lemon tart he’s served since. But when it comes to tortellini, one of the sacred dishes of Emilia-Romagna cuisine, Bottura had a harder time persuading the locals that his breaking of tradition made sense. After he saw that diners considered his traditional tortellini no better or worse than what they could get in most Modenese trattorias, he came out withSix perfectly shaped tortellini were placed in a line, the broth on each side of the procession held back from the plate’s center with a little culinary razzle-dazzle .
“it was the most scandalous, outrageous dish we did in the ’90s,” Bottura said in his dining room last month, when I was lucky enough to eat at Osteria Francescana.
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