Why the best bagels in the US aren't all in New York anymore.
.” The story sparked deep pride and deeper discontent, but these bakers aren’t trying to make somethingthan a New York bagel. They’re trying to make something different. “Because tradition isn't as established, there's more wiggle room, there's more space for experimentation and playfulness that might be harder to get away with in New York,” says Tejal Rao, the LA-based critic at large for thewho wrote that famed article.
In San Francisco, the bagels Alex Rogers sells each week at his Bernal Heights pop-up Chicken Dog Bagels , are colored by nostalgia. Rogers grew up in Connecticut, and it was always a special treat when his dad commuted home from Manhattan with a still-steamy paper bag of H&H bagels. Still, he doesn’t describe his product as a New York bagel—because it’s not.
Beyond how they ferment or hand-roll, bakers outside of New York are turning their attention to creative, out-there toppings you won’t find at most shops in our bagel capital. And as a lot of bakers in a lot of different cities seem to have realized, the best way to show off peak-season produce and artfully made schmears is to un-sandwich your bagel.
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