Why are madeleines making a comeback in Paris?
The cake originally hails from the Lorraine region, where it was invented, depending on whom you ask, by nuns at the local convent of Mary Magdalene or by a servant girl named Madeleine Paulmier, who shared the recipe with Stanislaus I, the deposed king of Poland and father-in-law of King Louis XV, when his pastry chef was pushed to the brink by his court jester.
Pastry Chef Gilles Marchal was one of the first modern Parisians to focus on the cake, just seven years ago: Hisboasts a madeleine logo, business card, and even door handle. This clear focus comes down to his roots: After all, Marchal was born and raised in Lorraine. His evocation of memory is not incidental, when it comes to this little cake. After all, author Marcel Proust’s 1913 noveloffered many their first brush with the tiny cake. In the novel, the memory of a madeleine dipped in tea paves the way for the narrator’s senses to be “invaded” by “an exquisite pleasure,” a passage so well-known among the French that a “madeleine de Proust” has colloquially become shorthand for one’s most nostalgic and visceral food memories.
“I wanted people to be able to make their own gift boxes,” he said of the madeleines, which are shelf-stable for up to five days. “And above all, I wanted them to be transportable.”
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