Routinely named as one of the best restaurants in the world, Faviken was Magnus Nilsson’s passion project. Here’s why he’s closing it:
a home cooking encyclopedia the size of the King James Bible that he researched, wrote and photographed himself. It’s easy to forget that he’s only 35 years old, and that Fäviken was his first try at running a restaurant.
‘I’m not leaving because I’m discontent with the restaurant. I’m just leaving because I’m done with it. Because I want to do other things.’What is the lifespan of a restaurant? Particularly one knitted from the local produce and wildlife, and to a charismatic, ambitious and perpetually inquisitive chef?
So Nilsson is engineering the end of his restaurant with the same kind of precision that he runs his kitchen. He purposefully waited to announce the closing until Fäviken was fully booked for the rest of the year — reservations were open on April 1, and filled up within hours — because he didn’t want the remaining months to operate like a wake, with diners coming to mourn or to gawk. “You don’t want people to be all crazy.
The dinner is brought to a conclusion by a procession of tiny plates, tea and coffee and bottles of house-fermented spirits as guests sit in cozy chairs before the downstairs fire. The first floor great room is decorated with dried grains; saws hang like artwork on the walls, as does a wolfskin fur coat, as if some century-old woodsman hung it up and forgot it. A fire crackles in a massive tepee out in the yard, where guests can sit and smoke in sheepskin-lined wooden chairs.
Until Dec. 14, the restaurant will operate like this, filling the six rooms upstairs for diners who stay overnight, and ushering through guests for an evening of Nilsson’s intricate translation of the region’s cooking and bounty. The gardens will be planted and picked, the bakery and butchery in one of the buildings next door to the restaurant will continue to operate. And then, just before Christmas, they will put out the fires for good, and dismantle the operation.
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