Food Network's 'Amy Schumer Learns to Cook' is required quarantine viewing
show is not really about learning to cook and it’s not at all about bridging the gaps between its on-air talent using technology; Schumer and her husband, the chef Chris Fischer, really are hunkered down in a house somewhere remote, and they really are doing something as prosaic as making food together, with Fischer doing a fair amount of the work and Schumer commentating while dicing a cucumber or having some wine.
Which maybe should come as no surprise, given that Schumer has never been a star whose game is positioning herself as better than her audience; she has a relentlessly one-of-us comic energy. But even beyond Schumer’s natural, careerlong gift for frank empathy, she’s made a show that exists as a sort of diary of this time. It’s less that Schumer is meaningfully learning to cook, although she slices onions well, than that Schumer is surviving a lot more family time than she otherwise might, and is making do.
Various ingredients are replaced by less-ideal but actually available alternates; the food is prosaic and comfortable, intended to use up pantry staples and, sometimes, to remind Schumer and Fischer of foreign trips they once were able to take. The pair is hardly putting their relationship under the microscope, but their interactions can in moments have a sort of “pause two seconds, then respond” energy that may be familiar to couples coexisting in small space.
But they’re not Zoom, with its graininess, its lag — and, crucially, its attempt to bring together people who are not and cannot be. This series is about making the best of what’s around, even if it’s not what you particularly care to do or thought, three months prior, you’d be doing. Schumer is not a cook and not becoming one fast, but she’ll give it a try, and try, with a spirit movingly more familiar from history books than from contemporary celebrity culture, to make it bearable.
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