Hot pot, ramen, and bone-broth counters have consistently warmed the city in winter months, but now some of our most ambitious kitchens are starting to display a renewed appreciation for bisques and bouillabaisse. tammieetc writes
in Soho. The core of the menu at their new restaurant is pasta, but I was drawn to something listed on the menu as “Alfabeto in Brodo.” For $21, what arrived was homemade alphabet soup — yes, the letters spell J-U-P-I-T-E-R — in a chicken-and-veal broth. The letter noodles had more bounce than anything you’d find in a can of Campbell’s, and the entire bowl was finished with a pleasantly aromatic scrape of fresh nutmeg.
Broth is life, forever and always, but this alfabeto nevertheless made me wonder anew what other soups might be hiding within the city’s upper-tier dining rooms, so I did the only reasonable thing and went tofor lunch. There, I encountered the consommé Alsacienne . It appears at the table as a bowl containing three neatly folded, thick-skinned sauerkraut dumplings. The server follows, carrying a copper pot of gewürztraminer-scented broth to ladle table side.
Surprisingly, the soup at Torrisi is just $18, meaning that it’s not even close to the most expensive option I encountered on this quest. The “velouté de topinambour” atfor $38 à la carte at the bar. A Joël Robuchon vet named Mitsunobu Nagae is in the kitchen, and his fine-dining pedigree shows in this ultra-refined sunchoke purée: Servers pour the soup table side over a bowl of gently cooked scallop halves, fried sunchoke nuggets, and rounds of black truffle.
It was very French, which I’d expected. Though I was surprised I’d be able to say the same thing about the “lobster cioppino” at, the newish Mediterranean restaurant that moved into the former Mission Chinese space on East Broadway. I thought its flavor profile would lean Italian, but I was immediately taken by the rich seafood broth, which perfumed the entire table with saffron.
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