.francis_lam goes to his favorite New York City taco truck for the perfectly seasoned lengua tacos, but stays for the community.
Do you remember the first star you ever saw? Your first sunrise? I can’t remember any of those things. But I can tell you exactly when I had my very first taco.
But here’s what I remember as much as the taco itself: the other workers at the flea market who were eating them too; the chitchat between them; how their own stalls selling welcome mats and garden tools sat empty as they stood around laughing for a few minutes. I don’t know why all this is lodged in my brain, but I suppose it’s because I keep reliving that moment at different times, in different places, in different languages.
Taco trucks—or carts, or stands—live out in the open; most people grab and go, and it’s easy to think that they’re transient and anonymous. But a great taco vendor is all about a kind of fleeting permanence, a constant point for people to gather, a place you can rely on for hot tortillas and the small bonds of humanity that keep society going.This year, on Thanksgiving, I found myself back at El Gallo Giro.
It was cold, and the streets were empty; no turkeys were being spared on this night. I ordered one more taco: cecina, griddled salt-cured beef, and smelled the coconutty finish of lime on my hands, anticipating the moment I would notice the scent of vaporized lard on my skin. I chatted for a while with the taquero, Jorge, when we heard some raised voices. Next to the truck, a South Asian produce vendor was arguing with a customer who wanted a five-dollar bag of fruit for four.
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