A Utah climber banned from Denali for 5 years says the initial charges against him don't reflect the truth of what happened when he sought an evacuation for himself and others. But another climber who was with him questions some parts of his account.
Jason Lance, of Utah, during his attempt to climb Denali via the West Buttress route in May 2021. to get evacuated after his partner fell 1,000 feet during a Denali summit attempt has agreed to a five-year ban from North America’s highest peak.
The charges said Lance asked for a helicopter evacuation for the three climbers, saying they were in shock and experiencing early hypothermia. The next day, rangers said, he refused to hand over Rawski’s satellite communication device and appeared to delete messages from it. The 48-year-old radiologist and former U.S. Air Force physician also said the initial charges against him didn’t reflect the truth of what happened.
They left the 14,200-foot camp at 1 a.m. or 2 a.m., Lance said. At a higher camp just above 17,000 feet, the pair met Grant Wilson and a climbing partner. A statement from the U.S. Attorney’s Office on Friday stated that Lance left Rawski and the others behind “while he proceeded to make a solo summit attempt,” though he came back later.
Lance said Saturday that he used Rawski’s satellite communication device — he had it because he was leading the descent — and hit the SOS button. Lance said he never got a message the helicopter was coming, and the trio decided their only option was to descend. At some point, to address any apprehension, he told the others that they wouldn’t have to pay for a helicopter rescue if one came, he said.
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