The Ulla Johnson pre-fall 2023 collection is here. See every look:
Nadine Ijewere photographed Ulla Johnson’s new lookbook in Jamaica. The lush tropical setting is an apt match for the collection, which vibrates with color, print, and texture. A scroll through the pre-fall lineups released so far reveals a sea of beiges and browns. Not here. The brightly patterned looks in slide 1 are sewn locally using silk habotai “clamp printed” in Bangalore, and no two panels are alike.
Johnson is keen to incorporate that kind of human touch into her offering, even as her brand grows by the season. Some of the denim, an expanding category for the designer, has been hand-painted with results she described as halfway between camouflage and a watercolor. The crochet group is an obvious example of her devotion to craft; some of this season’s iterations are constructed completely with round shapes, lending them a particularly homespun feel.
All that said, Johnson is also focused on elevation, which she achieved this season via both fabric development and silhouette. It was only on her spring runway that she showed her first real evening gown.
A Los Angeles store, long in gestation, is set for an April opening. This collection, which delivers about a month later, will be as at home in that sunny setting as it was in Jamaica.
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