Tom Colicchio’s Craft is still worth a splurge — if you order right (Via EaterNY)
into locations in LA and Vegas, maintains its wild popularity for well-heeled customers who want lots of options in their dining experience. We decided that his launchpad needed another look.
It was a case of culinary democracy run amok. Many diners were bewildered, forced to make decisions usually reserved for chefs. With all the choices, it was possible to pick ones that didn’t work together, resulting in a mediocre meal.review, “In the abstract, freedom of choice is desirable. But the arts, including the culinary arts, function more efficiently as dictatorships.”The signature leather wall is seen on the left.
Upon entering, there’s a bar on the right behind which lie thousands of wine bottles in niches. On the left and continuing around the L-shaped dining room are tables, sofas, and comfy chairs in stained wood that look like a cross between Mission-style furniture and Danish Modern. Edison bulbs hang from the ceiling like glowing soldiers on parade, and instead of a normal wall, there’s a circumflex surface composed of leather squares, now plashed with nearly two decades of spilled wine.
As with the original Craft, the menu remains bewildering. We ended up ordering eight dishes total. The salad, a showy pink-veined castelfranco radicchio in a cider vinaigrette, was glorious in its mild bitterness — there’s nothing better than a simple lettuce salad simply dressed. But it was meager for the $18 price tag.We ordered other apps, too, including a pair of beef shin bones with marrow served with brioche and heaped with garlic and herbs .
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