Houston Chronicle critic Alison Cook says it's all about the textures at Tim Ho Wan dim...
Mostly moderate, although it’s loudish when full.Baked BBQ pork buns; shrimp and chive dumplings; steamed beef balls with bean curd skin; steamed rice roll with shrimp and chives; wontons in hot & spicy sauce; har gow; siu mai; pan fried turnip cake; blanched Chinese broccoli with fried garlic; pan-fried noodles; lava custard sesame ball.High ceilings, palpable air movement.
My only sorrow is that the two-seat tables are a little too cramped to accommodate as much fun as I want to have. Bring along a third or fourth diner and spread out to a family-size table, or one of the big booths along the front window wall. Three is actually an ideal party size, as buns and dumpling arrive in threes, so deciding who’ll get the last morsel will be less fraught.
Less striking are a version stuffed with exceedingly calm chicken and “ginger essence,” although the buns also come in a deep-fried form that turns the dough gleamy and entertainingly elastic. Complaints? I have a few. Tim Ho Wan’s tea game is weak here, especially when I think back to the expertly steeped, evocative teas at the late, lamented. Tim Ho Wan is going for lower price points, to be sure — for more than a decade, their chief calling card has been as the cheapest restaurant to earn a Michelin star at their Hong Kong locations. But the flatness and lack of distinction of the Katy restaurant’s house tea and oolong is disappointing.
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