This Is What Makes Demna Gvasalia Tick

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This Is What Makes Demna Gvasalia Tick
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From veiling Kim Kardashian West at the Met gala to upending the elitism of the runway, creative director Demna has ushered in a new era for the house of Balenciaga.

morning in early July, amid reverential silence, a model walked the worn salons of 10 Avenue George V in Paris. She wore a tailored tangerine skirt suit—look number 17 from Balenciaga’s 50th couture collection.

Of all 63 looks in the couture collection, the orange skirt suit is of special significance for Gvasalia. It was inspired by a jacket Cristóbal made in 1962 and showed on a model with the collar pushed back for a nonchalantly elegant effect, a set-back silhouette that became a signature of the house. Gvasalia gave himself the challenge to produce the same offhandedly dramatic gesture through construction, so the jacket looks the same on a hanger as when worn on a body.

Nothing prepared Gvasalia for his current rise as did his earliest years, growing up in Georgia at a time of civil war. “When I was 12, during the war, while trying to survive in the Caucasus Mountains, I saw corpses of people who had been killed, images I wish no one to ever see, let alone as a child. When you’ve seen that at an early age, money, fame, and the whole fashion thing can’t really matter too much. Back then I actually had something to lose: my life.

Eliza Douglas, the American artist and sometimes model who has opened most Balenciaga shows under Gvasalia, describes his way of working as composed, engaged, and humbly generous. “Despite his position of extreme influence and pressure, it always impresses me how calm and level he is,” she says. “He doesn’t act like he is more important than other people.

The experience encapsulated his anxious ambivalence around—and ceaseless questioning of—identity. While leaving the hotel for the Met with his face shrouded, onlookers shouted “Who are you?” at the designer. “I thought, That’s such a good question: Who am I? Why am I even here?” he recalls. “It was hilarious, going to this event with Kim of all people as my prom date, both as shadows of our silhouettes. It said something about the paradox of celebrity, especially in America.

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