ICYMI: There's a great Dijon mustard crisis and Canada is a big part of the cause
“I eat lots of mustard,” French musician Didier Marouani told me with barely concealed panic, “but there’s no mustard in Paris. I’ve been to 25 shops, and we’ve found nothing — well, there is some mustard, but it’s not the good stuff.”
There is no sign of the smooth Dijon mustard so prized by the French — Amora and Maille are popular brands and, like Colman’s, both belong to Unilever. This is the condiment with which we used to eke out our cash as teenagers by slathering it on endless slices of baguette as we hitchhiked around France in the 1970s.
The mustard makers of Burgundy say they have been hit by a triple catastrophe that has cut supplies of the seeds ofFirst, there was bad weather in Burgundy itself and in Canada linked to climate change, particularly a North American heatwave last year that cut the crucial Canadian mustard seed exports by half. Then there was the Russian invasion of Ukraine, which had previously been a fallback source of supply. And last, importers faced the global COVID-related shipping and transport logjams.
Wholesale prices for the seeds were double or triple the normal level for some shipments, and retail prices have risen nearly 10 per cent in the past year. Vandermaesen says the financial impact for consumers is minimal given that the average person in France spends just €4.80 a year on mustard, but if the shortage persists it could deprive the French of a vital cooking ingredient.
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