Mashed, fried, or scalloped; chopped into salads; or simmered in soups, potatoes anchor the meals on this island.
On a fine July day on Prince Edward Island last summer, farmer Peter Roberts rolled up the door on a 200-by-80-foot storage shed, and out wafted an incomparable aroma: sweet cream and fresh-dug soil. It was the perfume of 4.5 million pounds of russet potatoes. Amassed into a towering tan hillock, the tubers awaited shipment to processors to be transformed into french fries and hash browns by the billions.
That’s why I was on PEI. You see, I’m a bit of a potato obsessive. I come from a family in which my respective grandmothers’ best-cooked dishes were latkes and potato pierogies. As a journalist, I’ve traveled to the Andes to visit growers in the tuber’s birthplace, and I’ve interviewed potato geneticists in the States. But I had never eaten the fresh crop at first blush right from the ground, when the little round newbies taste astonishingly milky.
From the northern beaches on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence to the southern coast facing Nova Scotia, from Bay Fortune on the eastern shore to O’Leary in the west, I traversed those fields in search of restaurants serving up PEI’s potatoey deliciousness.
Finnan haddie, or cold-smoked cured haddock, gives this brothy chowder a deep, clean, smoky foundation that highlights sweet clams without overwhelming them. Using a mixture of lightly mashed potatoes and hald-and-half to thicken and enrich the soup gives it a silky, but not heavy, texture.The communal feast was cooked over roaring flames.
It’s crucial to use thinly sliced bacon here, to achieve an evenly crisp crust. Seek out new crop potatoes for this recipe; they cook more evenly than potatoes that have been in storage. Save the bacon drippings for toast, basting roasted chicken, or for making cornbread.Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Dickey / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen
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