Sure, it's weird for this list to exist at all right now, but the global elite need to eat, too, we guess
An important chef crafting his world-class cuisine. Illustration: Universal History Archive/Universal Images Group via Getty Images This week, a cadre of food journalists, luxury sponsors, chefs, and industry hangers-on gathered in … Berlin? Zurich? Hmmm, wait. That doesn’t sound right. One sec. Oh yes, this year they’re in Antwerp.
But wait, you’re saying. I thought some restaurant in France was the winner, and I don’t see it here? It’s true that Mirazur, a coastal palace of intricate seasonal delights in southern France, took the top spot in 2019, and since the ‘50 Best’ skipped its list in 2020 , it was until this morning still the “best” restaurant in the world. But no more! Now it’s Noma, again.
Now, you may be thinking, Isn’t it a little weird that they’re doing this at all while a deadly global pandemic is still very much going on? Probably! Local critics in New York, at least, have abandoned stars and rankings completely, as the industry continues to reel from more than a year and half of destruction, death, and dismay.
To be sure, for restaurant owners, admission into the ‘50 Best’ club is an extremely lucrative way to get back to work. Your diners are the richest people in the world, and they will arrive in your dining room primed to pay for a good time. They will fork over $400 or whatever for your food and likely much more for wine and cocktails and coffee and anything else you can think to tack on to the bill.
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