Jordan Roth commissioned a head-turning coat for the 2021 MetGala
A view of the train of the coat in progress.If the exhibition that defines homegrown fashion as having a multiplicity of emotive expressions—the E pluribus unum ideal played out in cloth and stitches, one might say—Roth would like us to consider the multitudes that exist within ourselves; to imagine identity as a kinetic rather than static thing.
“When I knew what the exhibition would be exploring, I immediately went to the idea of identity, and how for me identity is a construction, just as a garment is a construction,” Roth continues.“So often our identities feel like they are essential facts about ourselves, as opposed to things that we take on, and in some cases, things that are projected on us by others that ultimately kind of fuse and feel as though that is who or what I am.
Another way to put this might be to say that there are infinite ways to fashion who we are. Identity, asserts Roth, “is a concept that we are in constant conversation with; a thing that we are making and unmaking in a sort of dance.”Photo: Courtesy of Michael Philouze The various dimensions of the embellishments create a sort of rhythm on the shaped coat with a train that, says Robinson, folds like peacock wings. Entirely handmade, this piece was about a year in the making;Michael Philouze connected Roth and Robinson last spring. The final execution was done in far less time: The gold fabric that forms the base of the coat was delivered on August 7th. Onto that fabric Robinson printed photos, some of which he took on his first visit to the Met post-lockdown.
Nestled among the snippets of text and Botticelli faces, the classical busts and butterflies, are many eyes, which give the coat a talismanic aspect. “I thought of those as witnesses, but also symbols of protection as well,” explains the artist, who thinks of this work as a kind of wearable art. “I come out of the queer activism of the nineties,” says Robinson, so “that idea of using clothing to share words or images to be evocative is definitely one of the places that my work comes out of.
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