Burlap & Barrel cofounder Ethan Frisch breathes transparency into the spice trade.
Though chefs increasingly take care when sourcing meat and produce, spices are still often overlooked. Batches from different regions are mixed together haphazardly, with cooks none the wiser that the flavors in their kitchens are feeble wisps of what they could be. Frisch himself imparts the wisdom of a spice sommelier, pointing out hints of orange rind in fresh cinnamon bark or the dry, tannic quality of nutmeg.
He and his business partner, Ori Zohar, are committed to helping both chefs and home cooks unleash the power of fresh, unadulterated spices. But they’re also operating ethically in an industry rife with colonialism. “As a white guy, I have a responsibility to work toward a better food system,” Frisch says. “Even if my ancestors weren’t involved with the violent nature of the spice trade, I’ve still benefited. I’m trying to balance that in a small way.
Using Skype and WhatsApp, Frisch sends pictures of restaurant dishes to farmers. “A farmer and a chef at Eleven Madison Park both value a high-quality ingredient,” he says. “They don’t know they’re working on it together, but they are.”This is sumac on steroids; it’s chopped and preserved in salt rather than being dried and ground like the regular stuff. The result is a tart, frisky sprinkle that punches up everything from avocado toast to roasted potatoes.
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