The Fall 2020 Couture Season Was Defined by Surrealism, Spirits, and Circus Mirror Distortions

Here is what you need to know about the fall 2020 couture season.

Christian Dior, fall 2020 coutureAlso contributing to the season’s feeling of disorientation was designers’ proportion play. There were enormous bows at Valli, and coats that neared the size of a compact car at Viktor & Rolf, but Valentino and Dior most dramatically represented opposite ends of the big/small spectrum.

In contrast, Dior’s miniature clothes were inspired by the Théâtre de la Mode, a post-WWII philanthropic exhibition. “As a show, ”wrote in 1946, “the Théâtre de la Mode offers great talent in small packages—on doll-size figurines, in delicately-proportioned sets, current French fashion is shown, complete with jewels, coiffures, accessories to scale.

The couture, a bastion of tradition that ensures the preservation of craftsmanship, has its own mythologies. Piccioli played on those when he made the comparison between the “dream factories” of couture and of cinema at his Cinecittà Studios show for Valentino. Couture is by definition slow fashion, but an unhurried pace needn’t preclude change. An instrumental version of John Lennon’s activist anthem, “Imagine” was used in Masion Margiela’s film.

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