There’s a deftness and quality to the cooking at this new place in Ancoats. But you might want to sneak in a pepper grinder
‘Mellow-flavoured’: courgettes with taramasalata.Provenance matters. It tells a good story. But why eschew pepper, if you’re not going to make a point with its absence? Pepper, like the rest of the spice rack, is fabulous. Nearby Rusholme and Longsight are full of Middle Eastern and South Asian shops serving communities that have been part of the region for generations. Are they doing something inauthentic? No, of course not.
In truth, I don’t really care enough to debate it, and nor should they. So let’s stop all this and get into the food. We begin with an impeccably French and impeccably dense ham hock terrine, striated with deep green lines of cavolo nero. Alongside, to cut through the saltiness, are lightly pickled blackberries. It’s been a good year for blackberries and this is a good use for them. It’s dressed in a puddle of straw-coloured rapeseed oil.
The dessert list is, like Precious McKenzie, short but strong . There’s a great sweet-sour berry crumble, with a topping that feels like part of the dish rather than something chucked on at the last minute as is too often the case in restaurant kitchens. It’s accompanied by a sizeable jug of light custard. I’d call it crème anglaise, but the lurch into French might not be appreciated. We also have a block of crisp-crusted seed cake, served warm, with the lightest of milk ice-creams.
If you’re looking for somewhere to drink beforehand, head to the nearby Blossom Street Social, which has many virtues including an interesting-looking Anglo-Brazilian fusion menu and a fine cocktail list. Their huge wine selection is available to buy to take home or to drink in at less than twice the retail price. That’s a serious bargain and, like the Edinburgh Castle, another reason for hanging out in Ancoats.
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