From churches to art museums to swimming holes—Helsinki is full of wonderfully designed, thoughtful subterranean spaces. But why?
One of my best friends grew up attending weekly swim lessons in a bunker in Helsinki. While an interesting story to trot out at dinner parties, her personal fun fact seemed wildly disconnected from the Helsinki I’ve come to know.
But what I had missed across multiple visits was just how much of life takes place underground. Just below the surface, Helsinki has over 5,500 bunkers, enough to hold its entire population of over 1.3 million people. The prevailing reason? Russia.Some quick history—it isn’t just the Cold War that’s increased tensions. From 1809 to 1917 Finland was part of the Russian Empire until securing their freedom.
While the designers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen’s reasons for designing the subterranean church have been officially lost to time, the brothers had previously worked for the Finnish defense forces, building defense caves. Strong, sturdy spaces were on their minds, a forward-thinking approach that got them the job.Helsinki Partners
Sandwiched between Helsinki’s Central Railway Station and the nearby Kamppi shopping center, the gallery is easy to access, a neon-marked location that has attracted over a half million visitors every year since it opened. But to fully understand Amos Rex, you have to start underground—specifically with the five submarine-like windows peaking up Lasipalatsi Square, creating a Wes Anderson-worthy playground structure for both art fans and local teenagers.
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