At its best, this is the finest show on TV. But the new season feels half finished, wastes its best actors and ends maddeningly. Only two episodes are knockouts
, because when the show is flying, it really is wonderful television. If the first season cooked up a solid base for the drama, returning troubled chef Carmen Berzatto to The Beef, the hectic Chicago sandwich shop owned by his recently deceased brother Mikey , the second season refined it beautifully. Few shows earn the privilege of having episodes that become widely known by their titles, but season two’s Forks and Fishes did just that.
Season three, then, finds itself in a tricky spot: if Carmen largely gets what he wants, professionally at least, where can the story go? It doesn’t quite find a solution. The stakes are a little lower. There are still money issues, albeit of a different flavour. Later episodes are threaded together by an imminent restaurant review, which may make or break the place.
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