Was Harry Yee (1918-2022) the very first human on planet Earth to put a little umbrella in a drink? It’s impossible to know, but he was celebrated for it, and solidified the concept of the umbrella drink in popular culture for all time.
A successful tropical cocktail can have a million mothers. Take the mai tai. Vic Bergeron—the Vic of Trader Vic’s, the kitschy restaurant chain that helped popularize an imaginary rendering of Polynesian culture for wistful mainlanders—asserted that he had invented the rum drink. Any suggestion otherwise, Bergeron said, aggravated his ulcer, adding, “Anybody who says I didn’t create this drink is a dirty stinker.
Yee’s parents were from China, and he was born and raised in Honolulu. He was small and bespectacled and had a shy smile. His father owned a general store in downtown Honolulu. After high school, Yee attended aviation school in San Francisco, and then served as a fighter pilot in the Chinese Air Force, under Chiang Kai-shek, during the Second World War. He returned to Honolulu after the war, and for a few years he worked at his family’s store.
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