Where to find kare-kare oxtail burritos, foie gras tarts, crab fat spaghettini, and leche flan popsicles in the capital of the Philippines
, and arguably the world’s longest Christmas season , Manila is a huge metropolis made up of many individual cities and the homes of more than 13 million people. This huge, frantic scene can feel challenging for some visitors to the Philippines, which is why many pass it over in favor of idyllic rural paradises like Palawan and Boracay.
The first thing you’ll notice are the extreme differences in various pockets of the city. To the west, near the bay, is old Manila, home to Chinatown, the Golden Mosque, and the walled city of Intramuros, where the earliest restaurants and casual turo turo steam tables abound. They coexist with the manicured business district, where dining is determined by global tastes and the social habits of the upwardly mobile.
In recent years, Manila’s chefs and restaurateurs have found new legs to stand on, as Filipino food has achieved long-overdue international attention. They’re cooking their own cuisine on their own terms, fusing heirloom traditions, local ingredients, and modern methods to create world-class menus. Following the pains of the pandemic, a new creativity permeates the city’s food scene, as chefs accustomed to working in scarcity have become even more resourceful. Filipino food has always been good.
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