Watch out, America: Texas is going to make you hungry. Oh, sure, the rest of the country knows about one or two places in Houston, they’ve seen some Texas...
What do the awards mean? On one level, not much: They’re symbolic, even theatrical. No, the Beards don’t always name all the best chefs, just like the Oscars don’t always honor the best movies. No, the judges didn’t try every restaurant in Texas. It’s not an awards show without a few snubs.
The 20 semifinalists for the title of Texas’ best chef include everything from high-end Mediterranean food to a barbecue trailer at a brewery. Our state shows its range with cuisines from Malaysian to Oaxacan, plus two chefs — Derry and Damien Brockway at Austin’s Distant Relatives — who are redefining our relationship with African American tradition.
Underscoring the break with tradition, this year’s honorees are mostly new to the awards circuit. In 2017, Texas only got 11 slots in the sprawling “Southwest” category, and nine of the 11 names were carried over from 2016. In turn, seven of that year’s names had also appeared in 2015. Here’s an amazing fact: Eight of the restaurants honored in the best-in-Texas category opened during the coronavirus pandemic.
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