TBT: This is what fall 2000 NYFW looked like.
Glamour—whether dazzling as at Oscar de la Renta, polished and sexy courtesy of Ralph Lauren, or “big-city” à la Michael Kors—was a theme that unified New York Fashion Week 20 years ago. Much use was made of fur and sequins to communicate this dressy mood. Whether they were outfitting the uptown types of Park Avenue or hoping to fulfill the dreams of downtown gallery assistants, designers seemed to want to make women look polished—and rich.
The idea of luxury was certainly in the air, but minimalism, a 1990s legacy, hadn’t entirely lost its grip. Silhouettes were mostly streamlined, and there were a few must-have basics: a sleeveless sweater and a sleek pencil skirt or pants. Operating outside of these trends but within their own grooves were designers like Anna Sui and Betsey Johnson, who offered their versions of “bohemian deluxe” and rock-chick dressing, respectively.
Manhattan’s uptown/downtown divide was still intact 20 years ago. Representing the latter was Miguel Adrover, whose fall 2000 backwards Burberry coat and Yankees-hat top made fashion history—and got him in trouble with copyright law. Daryl Kerrigan infused patchwork and Victoriana with cool, and Bruce’s Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli, self-described members of “the very first MTV generation,” zeroed in on incredible knits.
The week’s outliers were Bottega Veneta and TSE. The Italian-leather-goods house was then led by Laura Moltedo, who invited stylist Katie Grand and designer Giles Deacon to shake things up, which they did by supersizing the brand’s signature Intrecciato weave. Belts were wide, bags were huge, and the attitude was haughty. In 2010s parlance, the collection was “extra.” Much quieter but also impactful was Hussein Chalayan’s lineup for TSE.
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