Stew Science: What's the Best Way to Brown Beef?

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Stew Science: What's the Best Way to Brown Beef?
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The more thoroughly you brown your meat, the drier and tougher your stew ends up. Here's how to get it just right.

Most recipes for beef stew start with cutting meat into cubes, then browning the cubes in a big pot. The idea is that browning builds flavor through the Maillard reaction, which will then get spread around through the whole pot as the meat and vegetables slowly braise in liquid.

* There are a couple of classic methods to correct this issue, but neither is great. Browning in smaller batches is time-consuming and tedious. Tossing the raw meat in a starch, like flour, will increase the rate of browning, but browned flour just doesn't taste as good as browned beef. Eventually, that liquid will evaporate again, and your meat will start browning, but the problem is that the entire time the liquid is steaming, your meat continues to cook. Cook, but not brown.So what? Isn't the meat gonna be surrounded by liquid the whole time it cooks anyway? Won't that guarantee juiciness?

Actually, no, it doesn't guarantee juiciness, and anyone who has ever tasted a stew that's been cooked for too long or at too high a temperature knows this. Stewed meat can turn stringy and dry just as easily as roasted or grilled meat can, so temperature control and good timing are essential to a perfect stew.

So what's the solution? Forget about cubing your meat before cooking it. Start with whole cuts and cube the meatFor my testing, I browned meat that I cut off of one large chuck roll . For one batch, I left two and a half pounds of beef as a whole, solid chunk. For the second, I sliced the same amount of meat into three fat steaks. For the third, I cut it into one-and-a-half- to two-inch cubes.

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