Simone Rocha Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
A finely designed duet between the specters of sex and death, this spookily stimulating Simone Rocha collection played what we desire against what we’d powerfully prefer to avoid . It was also, she explained, the last part of a three show cycle. Last season’s London collection was titledbecause it was conceived alongside and creatively prefaced her couture collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier. That acclaimed just-passed Paris centerpiece was calledWe gathered in the 12th century St.
Corsetry thus ran through this third collection. Its delicate superstructure embraced the abdomen within tie-detail nylon parkas and rompers. Its contours defined the darting in little sheer jackets worn north of pantaloons, some of the many womenswear looks in which Rocha worked to place the models’ breasts on twin metal-beaded podiums shaped perhaps after lips. “There’s the perversity of being adorned, and cupped, in these organza corsets: it’s really stimulating on,” said Rocha.
There were many more characters in Rocha’s congregation. Polo shirts and closed-forearm fine-knits disintegrated into banks of tulle or more corsetry, sometimes sewn with metallic flowers. The models wore eyeleted and strapped thick soled oxfords or adorned Crocs, some in a short gumboot style. A long black dress in sections of fine jersey was peppered with lines of gleaming eyelets, while a red lurex-shot knit pencil skirt was topped with a matching knit hoodie with more beading at the ears.
More apparently conventional dresses in crushed golden velvet, pale pink brocade, and bow-bedecked chocolate taffeta exhibited a twisted primness: prim-iscuous. The fabrics were pressed to seem recently disinterred after long slumber, perhaps in a coffin.
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