Sensuality seemed to be the order of the day for Anthony Vaccarello and the brand's AW22 collection.
Would you rather go naked than wear fur? Fear not. At Saint Laurent — which last year announced it was going fur-free — you needn’t be presented with an ultimatum anymore. If Anthony Vaccarello’s AW22 collection was anything to go by, you can showcase the silhouette of your body in long, slinky bias-cut gowns and luscious pelts of faux fur — or simply wear nothing but a big chubby coat to seduce whomever you please.
Sensuality — rather than an overt, skin-baring sexuality — seemed to be the order of the day. Or night, considering the nocturnal spirit of the collection. Plenty was left to the imagination, courtesy of covered-up silhouettes with the exception of the occasional plunging neckline, and heavyweight coats seductively clutched by the bare-faced models.
As for those furs, or faux furs rather, they were made by the skilled artisans who usually work with the real deal. Hence why they looked better than the lazily-cut ersatz skins we see on so many catwalks. Many of them also didn’t have the plastic-y sheen that so often comes with synthetic fabrics, instead having the supple bounce and ombré colour that makes fur so sensuous, worn with the innate confidence of the women who can afford to wear it.
In his show notes, Anthony pointed out that he had been looking to the Art Deco period, the art and interiors of which Yves was an avid collector. You wouldn’t be able to tell from the collection itself, because the references were subtle and discrete.
tuxedos. Given the show was mostly gowns and outerwear, here was a reminder that this is very much Saint Laurent, arguably the most important fashion house of the 20th century. If the concept behind the collection was simple, then this serves as a reminder that there is little that Yves did not pioneer — and that there is plenty from his genre-defying canon that Anthony can continue to magnify and expand upon in collections to come.
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