A couple of first-time restaurateurs are serving some of the best banh mi sandwiches in the state.
Head chef Phong Nguyen, left, with co-owners Jeine and Jon Tran on Dec. 7, 2022, at PhoLicious in Bloomingdale.Glance at it from the side, and notice how the many sliced types of meat — ham, head cheese, pork roll and roast pork — are proportioned so exactly that you’re contractually guaranteed a taste of each with every bite. Then spot the shock of green from the fresh cilantro, cucumber and jalapeño, along with a pop of orange from the pickled carrots.Pick it up.
First, they traveled. “We visited a lot of places with large Vietnamese communities, like Texas, California and Australia, before going back to Vietnam,” Tran said. “Then we would go home to our kitchen and try to figure it out.” After seven years of research and planning, the two finally felt ready to open up Pholicious in a strip mall in suburban Bloomingdale. They thought they had everything figured out. The only problem turned out to be the opening date of Feb. 24, 2020. Within weeks, the pandemic completely upended the entire restaurant industry, and they had to close their dining room and figure out how to keep their fledgling business alive.
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