Review: Rooster & Owl is D.C.’s most exciting restaurant debut this year
Carrots with barbecue sauce and cornbread ice cream. By Tom Sietsema Tom Sietsema Food critic Email Bio Follow Food critic March 20 at 10:30 AM
The dining room doesn’t prepare you for what’s to come. The leather chairs are comfortable, but also tightly spaced, and random overhead branches and leaves suggest the remains of a Halloween party. Shelves of plastic food containers keep some space between the visible kitchen and Tang’s audience. From a design stance, Rooster & Owl looks unremarkable. It doesn’t much matter, though, because as soon as the food starts showing up, your eyes will be riveted to the plates.
Crackling fried baby quail, glazed with miso, honey and yuzu juice, lounges on grits fired up with Thai chile in a red pepper relish: fusion at its finest.Despite the Uber gig, Tang, 36, is no Johnny-come-lately. His New York credits include line cook positions at the esteemed Jean-Georges and the Modern. Most recently in Washington, the college accounting major served as a sous-chef at the late Rogue 24.
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