Bill Addison reviews eccentric Bar Restaurant in Silver Lake
The best thing to be said about the banal, post-structuralist name of Silver Lake’s new Bar Restaurant is that it is accurate.
Pierluc Dallaire, Bar Restaurant’s general manager and beverage director, serves customers in the bar area.Booths in the long, narrow dining room are separated by partitions painted a minty shade of green. Stubby, Art Deco sconces jut from beige walls; the light after sundown is the color of drawn butter. Dried palm fronds spring out of planters. Towering, textural floral arrangements by the Boy Who Cried Flowers brighten the dimness.
Rankin’s wink at mussels and frites is the wittiest thing on the menu. Tan mollusks bathe in Dijon cream; a submerged slice of milk bread toast manages to retain its crunch. To finish, the kitchen blankets the whole situation with curly fries. It’s weird and triumphant. For $32, it’s also an expensive high-low masterpiece; for the price, the mussels are deshelled and cooked just to plumpness.
Not every dish goes overboard on painterly qualities: A nicely seared piece of rainbow trout over rice curried with vadouvan and brightened with salsa verde is straightforward with visuals and flavors, and it scores.A few dishes wobble. Something unappealingly sour lurks in the Brussels sprouts-labneh starter.
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