Review: American Son should make this chef’s parents proud
From left: Ben Yonkman, Heather Matranga, Rob Tashima and Alana Davicino at American Son. By Tom Sietsema Tom Sietsema Food critic Email Bio Follow Food critic March 27
The venue’s featured restaurant is called American Son. It’s a reference to Tim Ma, a second-generation Chinese immigrant who spent part of his youth in rural Arkansas and went on to open, most recently, Kyirisan, the well-received French-Chinese dining experience in Shaw.Barbecued quail with gochujang glaze, brassica slaw and skillet cornbread. The chef has a full plate at Eaton DC.
American Son’s more mainstream dishes take into account that hotels have to welcome a swath of appetites. Enter beef cheeks on a puddle of creamy grits, garnished with pickled red onions. Butter and vinegar add their gloss and sting to the soft meat, showered in minced chives. Ma also offers a ringer for a Big Mac on his late-night menu. The look-alike is tagged as a “wellness” selection, thanks to a vegan patty and cheese.
Pastry chef David Collier’s desserts go with the flow. They’re clean, light and satisfying. One of his newest creations gathers a suggestion of blackout cake, mascarpone panna cotta and espresso ice beneath delicate squares of chocolate tuile. But White Album, a signature from the start that combines some of my favorite flavors and textures, remains best in class.
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