This week restaurant critic BillAddison reviewed All Time, a restaurant serving comfort food all day in Los Feliz.
Los Angeles newcomers always remember their first Southern California tremor. Mine happened while eating breakfast at All Time in Los Feliz on Independence Day this year. The ground went wavy beneath us and my friend Hillary, also a recent transplant, said loudly, “Is this an earthquake?” The seasoned Angelenos around us froze midbite, like a time-stop tableau in a sci-fi series. In 90 seconds the rolling stopped and everyone continued chomping on their avocado toast as if nothing had happened.
It helps that the restaurant’s odd, satisfyingly angled indoor-outdoor arrangement feels congenial but also creates many little pockets of privacy. Most of the tables in the covered, walled patio have been masterfully arranged for minimum eavesdropping. In the tiny dining room, there are three long shelves mounted on a white clapboard wall, artfully outfitted with framed photos propped up on stacks of cookbooks amid animal figurines and bottles of olive oil.
At lunch the sandwiches are events. A frequent BLT special — calming in its correct, crisp-squish proportions — makes me want to clutch summertime like someone’s hand too precious to let go of. Pickled onions and hot pepper jelly rile up a monster of a turkey sandwich.Other dishes could use such vigor. Cucumber pickles don’t carry enough acid to brighten a busy salmon rice bowl; the mustardy dressing for a Niçoise salad needs more potency to uplift its many ingredients.
A handful of trusty menu constants best balance the quality-value equation: The “good ass” salad tastes like an inspired walk through the farmers market, with a lemony hit in the vinaigrette that I hankered for. Tyler Wells nails the texture of cavatelli, with an al dente chew that stands up to a warming, nicely concentrated lamb ragu. And the social media star, deservingly so, is focaccia smothered with burrata and scattered with roasted cherry tomatoes and basil.
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