It’s a near-universal comfort food, whether at Noma or at home. In this isolated stretch, a good burger manages to be a nostalgia fix and a nutrient boost in one.
Taylor Chen,
he managed to wean her off a vegan diet; she went on to run a bone-broth service in the infancy of the craze. “I’ll give my spiel,” he told me by phone from Pound Ridge, New York, explaining how their 5-year-old daughter will have all sorts of freedoms growing up—but being a vegetarian is not one of them. He points to how much of “our emotional well-being and our physical health and fertility comes from being able to have good digestible protein,” he says.
In Chen’s clinical practice, his patients' concerns run the gamut: post-cancer, auto-immune disease, stress and well-being, fertility. In his light-hearted way, he tells me the no-nonsense prescription he has given to plant-based eaters trying to conceive: “I was like, ‘The only thing you need to get pregnant is to eat some meat and have good sex.’” He’d send them to the Ace Hotel on 29th and Broadway, where the Breslin cooks up a solid lamb burger.
Burgers and sex—is it any surprise the one-time vices have come in from the cold? We are human, after all, and we are thinking creatures. Making mindful decisions about both makes all the difference. The Chens get deliveries of grass-fed meat every other week from; the ground beef tends to be more affordable, which means burgers on the regular.
Paying attention, ruminating, cooking, sex. Masks and hand-washing and cocoons of distance. More SPF than you think. That sums up wellness these days, as we head into an uncharted summer. The living isn’t easy—but a burger, made with love, should hit the spot.
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