Chianti has been a staple table wine for decades. Now, Christine Sismondo reports, vintners and drinkers are rediscovering its versatility
When a team of scientists led by Enrico Fermi produced the world’s first controlled nuclear fission chain reaction in Chicago on Dec. 2, 1942, they marked the start of the atomic age by quietly sipping red wine out of paper cups. For posterity, each scientist signed the straw wrapped around the base of the green bottle of Bertolli Chianti, which, at the time, was one of the world’s most recognizable wines.
One of the better-known characters in this reform movement was Sebastiano Cossia Castiglione, whose father founded Querciabella. “Castiglione converted Querciabella to organic viticulture in 1988, eight years before the Chianti Classico DOCG was even formed,” says Giorgio Fragiocomo, global sales director of the renowned winery.
The ethos of the Chianti Classico DOCG is responsible for a regional style that lets the grape tell the story. That tale tends to be one about fresh, bright and perfectly dry juice with tart cherry, herbal and currant notes, all blended in flawless balance. It’s as though the Chianti reformers anticipated today’s shifting wine tastes three decades in advance. Today’s drinkers are moving away from weighty, woody, fruit- and alcohol-bombs in favour of fresh, food-friendly and youthful wines. The change coincides with a new appreciation for the simplest of Italian dishes such as a perfectly cooked Tuscan artichoke or stale bread turned into a salad by adding fresh tomatoes and a splash of local olive oil.
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