Proenza Schouler, 20 Years Strong

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Proenza Schouler, 20 Years Strong
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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez on their evolved design process, the moment when they almost ran out of money, and moving from esoteric to relatable.

In the early days, we’d come from an arts school background, and the pieces were really well made, the materials were insane. It’s like wow, we sold that for that much money? We must have made pennies.The fall 2011 collection has been reconsidered in recent years in the context of cultural appropriation.We had gone on a road trip and ended up in New Mexico at Georgia O’Keeffe’s house, we were inspired by all the Pendleton blankets, too.

This was the show at the old Whitney Museum — we were really inspired by artist Robert Morris’ work. He does those felt wall pieces, slashed, and it kind of informed how we went into our fittings. We started with basic shapes, then cutting, and letting things fall, and letting gravity take over.Then there was the collection at the new Whitney, this new one coming up this season has some of that same energy…A look from the Proenza Schouler spring 2016 show.

WWD: Those cutout and pleated metallic looks were a huge hit, and I remember the skirts carrying over a few seasons in stores. When did you start to think about that commercially?It took a minute to establish our codes and repeat things for people to associate them with us.One season, we had pieces that were all crocheted in Madagascar, we sent one of our team members to oversee it and she ended up getting malaria.We got really good at making things so it was all about challenging ourselves.

White Label came into the picture a while after that, but that was a good incubator of a White Label idea of going back to basics and the wearability and wardrobing.WWD: When did tailoring become more important?Tailoring to get it right you have to have patternmakers who know what they are doing and the ones we had in house were more flou people. So we did most of our tailoring in Italy and we’d go there for fittings.

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