Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker opens a new charcoal-fueled restaurant this month
on the second floor, specializes in charcoal-cooked dishes of all kinds, from high-quality grilled meats to dips and roasted vegetable salads straight out of the mortar and pestle., teasing dishes like whole smoked-and-roasted young chicken with turmeric and coconut cream, Dungeness crab pork fat fried rice, and charcoal-grilled roti; he says he’s particularly excited about other “pounded” dishes he encounters in northern Thailand, which are mashed in a mortar and pestle.
Because the restaurant is smaller with a lower overhead, the chef says Ping Yang Pow can play with exceptional proteins and vegetables. “I really wanted to force ourselves into this position where we were using very minimal modern tools to get the job done — no sous vide machines, no blenders. I wanted to limit ourselves, force ourselves to work with what we’ve got,” Ricker says. “It allows us to use a higher quality of product in the restaurant...
Ricker says he wants to allow the restaurant to feel more spontaneous than his other restaurants, so his fellow chefs — including Pok Pok’s own Thanyawan “Thanya” Kaewket — can pull inspiration from what’s in front of them. Kaewket is the head chef, which means that as the restaurant gets settled and Ricker focuses on his other businesses, she will develop her own creative voice when it comes to the menu. That being said, Ricker doesn’t want Ping Yang Pow to be completely loose.
The menu will stick to a tight menu of wine, beer, non-alcoholic options, and batched cocktails, which are still in development. The restaurant, with its 24 seats, will look into an open-format kitchen, with chefs grinding out dishes in the mortar and pestle and turning skewers on the satay grill. “You’re seated in the dining room looking into a kitchen. You’ll see the grill from where you are, you’ll see stuff getting chopped up and plated,” he says. “It’s the job that I’d like to have...
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