The football may not have come home last night, but this morning, fashion fans woke up to news that something even better is: Phoebe Philo. Here, we unpack what the announcement means:
. After a ten-year stint at Celine, and her five-year run at the helm of Chloe, though, she’ll be creating under her own name this time around, launching an eponymous label focussed on “clothing and accessories rooted in exceptional quality and design” out of. “Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,” said the British designer in a statement. “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere.
The sentiment was echoed by Bernard Arnault, who dubbed Phoebe “one of the most talented designers of our time”, before expressing his excitement at joining forces with Phoebe on her forthcoming “entrepreneurial venture”. Of course, while the announcement is in and of itself enough to get tongues across the industry wagging, it naturally invites speculation around what to expect from the return of one of the industry’s most cultishly adored creatives. Though many Philophiles will be holding their breath for the maturity, poise and refined sensuality that defined her tenure at Celine, it bears noting that Phoebe is a designer who has demonstrated incredible versatility in her time.
Also, for all the fond nostalgia for her most celebrated work, it’s also worth contemplating the contemporary relevance of the look that Phoebe Philo pioneered at Celine. While she may have led the wave of intentionally discreet luxury that swept the industry in the wake of the 2008 recession, her comeback arrives at a time when a general obsession with aggressive branding -- and co-branding -- has never been quite as ubiquitous or complex in its nature (cf.
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