But the New York of today is not the one Lang knew
Up until seven days ago, I had never seen Peter Do’s face. Most people in fashion haven’t. The designer, who founded his namesake brand in 2018 and who became the new creative director of Helmut Lang just three months ago, rarely allows himself to be photographed. When he does, it is usually from the back. If it is head on, he is obscured by a mask.
Do was raised in Vietnam before moving to Philadelphia when he was 14, but his commitment to partial anonymity has less to do with a cultural difference and more with fear. He told me simply, “Being famous freaks me out.” But that too has backfired, considering his first show for Helmut Lang, which marked the official start to the New York Fashion Week Calendar yesterday, was one of the most anticipated of the season.
The closest the brand got was when it brought in Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver for a one-off collection in 2017 that Oliver described to The New York Times as “horny.” Its bra bags and re-editions of Helmut Lang originals made headlines and received praise from critics and fashion fans alike, but it was never repeated.Do’s approach to reviving the brand is noticeably different and less raunchy. For one, Do says there are no exact replicas in his collection.
When Do speaks about Lang, he doesn’t immediately mention the clothing. Instead, he mentions all of Lang’s innovations: how he was one of the first people to show his collection online, how he insisted on showing the men’s and women’s collections together, how he worked with artist Jenny Holzer on clothing advertisements that didn’t feature any clothing. Of particular interest to Do is the fact that Lang was the first designer to advertise on New York City taxicabs back in 1998.
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