One of the Bay Area’s best taco spots shuts down

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One of the Bay Area’s best taco spots shuts down
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Tacos Mama Cuca in Oakland was an Instagram hit that drew long lines of customers for its Sonoran-style food. The taco spot closed Monday after being issued a warning for operating without a license.

Sonoran-style tacos al carbon are a staple at Tacos Mama Cuca in Oakland, Calif. The business is now in limbo after receiving a warning for operating without a license.Sonoran-style tacos are giant, filled to the brim with smoky carne asada and held together by handmade flour tortillas that are impossibly soft and chewy. They are a northern Mexican tradition and hard to find in the Bay Area. Maria Marquez, the chef and proprietor of Oakland’s, made the best of them.

“It was just a form of work. It didn’t really hurt anyone,” Marquez told SFGATE in a phone interview while speaking in her native Spanish. “We understand, though, that we weren’t operating how the country requires us to operate.” Marquez, 38, is from Sonora, Mexico. She was born in the town of San Ignacio but lived most of her life in the city of Obregon. She moved to the United States about 15 years ago but returned home briefly before settling in Los Angeles seven years ago. That’s where she began making and selling her pillowy and perfectly blistered flour tortillas on the streets.

After just one year in Los Angeles, she and her husband, Juan Carlos, 39, moved north and settled in East Oakland. In 2019, they started making and selling her tortillas out of their home to businesses around the Bay Area, including spots like Tacos El Ultimo Baile, the successful taco truck turned brick-and-mortar in Fruitvale.

Maria Marquez, center, handles most of the production at Tacos Mama Cuca in Oakland, Calif., including making the flour tortillas by hand.In early 2022, Marquez and her husband expanded the business with the taco stand, selling Sonoran specialties like tacos al carbon, caramelos and lorenzas. They quickly made

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