“They risked their lives to deliver food, which was a lifeline.”
attributes her burning appreciation of food to coming of age during the Chinese Cultural Revolution.
So when COVID hit her hometown of Wuhan, food was foremost in Compestine’s mind. She worried about family members who still reside in the city. Were they hungry? How were they getting groceries, when the whole city was on lockdown? Eventually, she came across a story about young volunteers who were cooking meals and delivering staples to people quarantined at home.
But food is embedded in its heart. Some of the masks characters wear – perhaps due to misinformation or lack of supplies – are made with cabbage leaves and citrus peels. The writing is rich in appetizing descriptions, like Mei’s class erupting “as if someone dropped water into a wok full of hot oil,” and a nurse passes through a crowd that “quickly seals back like a thin stew.
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