In a single day at Les Halles, in New York City, Anthony Bourdain once nourished himself with three double espressos, two beers, three cranberry juices, eight aspirins, a hunk of merguez sausage, and an “Industrial”—a beer stein filled with a Margarita.
, scraps, meat for steak tartare, pork tenderloins larded with bacon and garlic, pâtés, rillettes, galantines, and chickens.
I work on a six-burner Garland. There’s another range next to it, which is taken up with a bain-marie for sauces, with onion soup, and with stocks—veal, chicken, lamb, and pork—that have been reducing at a slow simmer during the previous day and night. When we’re serving meals, one of my burners will be occupied by a pot of boiling water for Omar to dunk ravioli in. On another burner he’ll sauté lardons for frisée salads, sear tidbits of hanger steak for.
The key to staying on top of a busy station is to move on a dish as soon as Mohammed yells its name—set up the pan, do the pre-searing, get it into the oven quickly—so that later, when the whole order board is fluttering with dupes, I can tell which dishes I have working and which ones I have waiting, without having to read the actual tickets again.
I catch the duck just in time, roll it over, skin side down, and pull it out of the oven. Mohammed yells out another pasta order. I pour extra-virgin into a pan and sauté some paper-thin garlic slices with crushed red pepper, add artichoke hearts, roasted vegetables, some olives. Whenever I do pasta, I start humming Tony Bennett or Dino . I really love doing that final squirt of emulsifying extra-virgin, just after the basil goes in..
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