Nobody’s Darling opened last year as a cocktail bar in a city full of cocktail bars — but also with a mission.
it had undergone an audit of its policies and procedures and would be committed to “a more inclusive and transparent awards process.” Among the steps it pledged to undertake was increased turnover and diversity among judges and committee members, plus annual training in diversity, equity and inclusion.
It’s impossible not to compare Nobody’s Darling to the other Chicago bars that have been finalists in the Outstanding Bar Program category, and the differences are stark. The Aviary, whose menu includes a $185 seven-course cocktail and food tasting menu, is opulence defined. The Violet Hour, where house rules include “proper attire required,” is a picture of elegance, with cocktails topping out at $28.
It’s also inclusive in ways its predecessors have fallen short. The rise of cocktail culture during the past 15 years has tended to be the domain of younger white people. Riddle said she doesn’t think queer people and people of color have intentionally been excluded, but they traditionally “haven’t been thought of in a way that’s intentional.
On a recent cool and wet Wednesday evening, seats were about two-thirds occupied and stayed that way until the 11 p.m. close. The crowd was mostly women and femme-presenting people, though not entirely, and in a highly racially segregated city, Nobody’s Darling was a welcome counterpoint. There was a comfort and kindness to the energy in the room; as a friend and I stood at the end of the bar ordering, two women offered to move down a seat so we could have two stools together.
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