A short look at the city’s long history of restaurant exclusivity.
Vanity Fairfrom 2012, Bob Colacello spilled the Dom on many of these canteens of café society and revealed that Soulé was known as “the haughtiest host” and banished anyone he determined to be substandard to the back dining room , his landlord and the head of Columbia Pictures among them.
In terms of how the reservation game was played back then, everything depended on the discernment and preferences of the maître d’, who was often a proprietor. He was the person who needed to know you, and he alone deemed guests worthy of a seat at one of his tables. Another way in might be the subtlest greasing of a palm, but it would be a faux pas to bribe the owner of the place; that would be for a hired hand. One had to know the difference and operate accordingly.
Things moved downtown when the McNally brothers — Keith and Brian, along with Keith’s future ex-wife Lynn Wagenknecht, openedin 1980. I still remember my parents taking my younger brother and me downtown to eat there on Sunday nights, except the details that I remember aren’t what the grown-ups would: They’d recall seeing Andy Warhol or Dennis Hopper meandering in for dinner. For me, it’s the paper-covered tablecloths and the canisters of crayons plus a burger and fries.
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