These designers are shaking up Milan’s formerly staid menswear scene.
Milan’s most popular designers have long followed in the tradition of precise tailoring and bourgeois aesthetics, but the recent fall 2020 men’s shows tell a different story thanks to a band of younger designers ready to shake things up. They are a group mostly supported by the ever-faithful Camera Della Moda, who challenge their predecessors by pushing back on what is seen as acceptable.
No. 21, though not considered young anymore, is the accredited pioneer of this movement in Milan. Alessandro Dell’Acqua began emphasizing men’s streetwear five years ago, continuing his mission for fall 2020. Yes, this season he might have included structured coats and blazers in his lineup, but his loose suit trousers, parkas, leopard print, and slouchy sweaters really dominated the show. Even ultra-cropped tops revealing the full torso made an appearance.
As mentioned earlier, a small group of English designers banded together to take part in reinventing the narrative around Italian design. First and foremost, A-Cold-Wall put forward an incredibly cohesive collection filled with boxy, well-made shirts, wrap tunics, and patterned parkas.
How exciting is it that designers whose home turf has long been dominated by classic, sometimes antiquated standards are striving for the new and the exciting? These young talents are allowing the fashion world to experience a fresh take on menswear that pays homage to the streets without forgetting heritage. In the midst of this seeming tug-of-war, it’s important to note one unanimous element: the devotion to remaining eco-friendly.
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